Living with an Overlocker

Many of us started home sewing, long before Overlockers were a home machine.  Here you’ll find some frequently asked questions, and information to get you started on understanding a machine, I can’t live without!

So what exactly is an Overlocker?

An Overlocker is a machine that creates the finished seam you see on the inside seams of ready made garments such as side seams in shirts, blouses, trousers etc.  Due to international influences, you will hear people refer to Overlockers as Sergers and here in Spain it is called a Remalladora

What does an Overlocker do?

An Overlocker trims the seam allowance, sews the seam and encloses the edges in a thread casing, all in one step.  Overlockers work well for making finished narrow hems, rolled hems; blind stitched hems, and overcast seams.  Overlockers alone can produce garments that don’t have buttonholes or enclosed zips.  They are also very efficient for sewing stretch fabrics and working with bias cut garments.  You can also attach elastic to lingerie and swim wear.

Types of Overlockers and Stitches

Most Overlockers today have at least 4 threads.  Some have 5 and one Company produces an 8-thread machine

What is Coverstitch?

Cover stitch is the stitch with 2 or 3 rows of topstitching on the right side of the garment and an overlocked stitch on the inside.  You will find this stitch on virtually every T-shirt and knit or stretchy fabric type of clothes.  This is usually found on the hems and in fact is a very quick and neat way of finishing a hem as this particular machine will turn under the hem and enclose it inside this stitch, which saves a lot of time, as well as giving a very professional finish to your sewing.  This machine will also attach lace, bias binding and makes pin-tucking quick and easy.

What is the differential feed?

Most overlockers today have a ”differential feed”.  This gives many more options.  The differential feed is connected to the feed-dogs.  There are two sets of feed-dogs (teeth) under the foot.  On normal sewing, these work at the same rate with the front ones pushing the fabric under and past the foot whilst the back ones are pulling- all at the same rate.  When you alter the differential lever to ratio of 2.0, it increases the amount of fabric that is pushed through under the foot by the front feed-dog, creating a gather.  When you are working with knits, you can adjust the feed, to obtain the same results that you would with an even feed foot on your regular machine.  When working with a single layer of woven fabrics, you can “speed up the feed” to create a ruffle.  This also enables you to gather one fabric and attach it to a straight piece of fabric.  At the same time you can insert a piece of piping cord between the two layers, as well as trimming and neatening all the edges at the same time.  (How long would this take you on an ordinary machine?), or, you can also adjust the machine to create a waved edge (lettuce leaf) on fine fabrics and bias cut garments.

Aren’t they difficult to thread?

Everyone has always hated threading Overlockers, but they are improving.  Thread paths are colour coded and some (Baby Lock) have a jet-air threading system that is the envy of many, making threading so simple even a child could do it and it is problem free.   Others have part of the threading semi-automated which makes threading the loopers easier.  Some have automatic needle-threaders like normal sewing machines.

TIP:  When changing threads, cut near the reel at the back of the machine and tie on the new thread and pull gently through the guides.  This saves a lot of time.

Haven’t they got tensions to adjust?

A stitch is made up of threads from loopers and needles.  The upper looper thread zigzags on the top of the fabric, the lower looper zigzags on the underside of the fabric with the two threads interlocking on the cut edge of the fabric.  The two needle threads penetrate the fabric and secure the looper threads in position   Depending on the fabric or thread, the tensions will need altering.  The adjustment knobs are on the front of the machine and are usually numbered.  There are models now that operate without tensions to control.  These have a different system called “automatic thread delivery system”, which means you can place any thread and use any fabric and the tension will be perfect, because it has sensors, which calculate the length of thread it requires for each stitch.

TIP:  If you buy an overlocker with numbered tension dials, keep a notebook handy and jot down the numbers on the dials for each type of thread and material as you perfect them.  This will save you having to adjust the tensions anew every time you sew.

Could an Overlocker replace my normal sewing machine?

Although some projects can be done 100% on an Overlocker, it cannot replace a regular sewing machine.  You will still need a sewing machine to make buttonholes, and insert zip fasteners.

Which Overlocker should I buy?

To decide on an overlocker, you have to take time to consider what sort of sewing you are most likely to do.  Here is a guide:

If price is the most important factor, buy the best you can afford even if all the settings are not necessary at first.  The price usually reflects the quality and its ability to do the most number of stitches, with the least trouble threading the machine and setting tensions.  As with most things the more you pay, the more quality you get.

Owning an Overlocker